Vincent Misango and Collins Wanjala
Introduction
Wool, a natural fiber from sheep, is a valuable, durable, and versatile raw material for the textile and apparel industry. Wool production is concentrated in the highland and medium regions, where favourable climatic conditions support sheep farming, including Merino, Corriedale, and Dorset Horn breeds. Unlocking the potential of the wool production value chain can create various job opportunities, from sheep rearing to the technical processes of shearing, spinning, weaving, dyeing, and garment-making.
Despite its importance to rural livelihoods, the wool sector in the country is underdeveloped, with job creation potential along the value chain largely untapped. Wool production activities include sheep farming, shearing, wool assembling, processing, manufacturing, marketing, and exporting wool and woolen products. Currently, over 8,000 farmers are employed in wool production, with around 1,000 jobs created through cooperatives such as Njabini (Nyandarua) and Kenana (Nakuru), which involve youth and women in rural areas. However, the sector faces challenges in realizing its full employment potential. While the Bottom-up Economic Transformation Agenda (BETA) and the Kenya Vision 2030 support value chain development for local textile processing, policy gaps hinder the wool sector’s growth as a driver of job creation. This blog explores the status of employment in the wool sector, challenges, opportunities, and recommendations to unlock its potential.
Status of Job Opportunities in the Wool Sector
The wool sector provides employment for both skilled and unskilled workers across various stages of the value chain.
- Stage 1: Wool sheep rearing and shearing
Approximately 8,000 farmers are involved in sheep rearing across wool-producing regions such as Meru, Nyandarua (Njabini), Kiambu, Nakuru (Kenana) and Narok. Seasonal wool shearers and 37 assemblers, mostly men and youth, are also employed at this stage.
- Stage 2: Processing and value addition
Activities such as scouring, spinning, and weaving are mainly carried out by women and youth. About 2,000 artisans work in local processing and textile mills. For example, Nanyuki spinners and weavers have trained 282 women in Laikipia County, many of whom have become self-employed. Njabini Wool Crafters in Nyandarua County have trained 15 youths in wool spinning, with 12 becoming weavers and 3 specializing in natural dyeing. Kenana Knitters employs over 300 knitters and 200 spinners. However, inadequate training limits the sector’s capacity to employ more artisans despite the high demand for skilled labour.
- Stage 3: Marketing and distribution
Processed wool and woolen products are sold in domestic and export markets. The Kenya National Bureau of Statistics (KNBS) reports that the wool sector produced 1,852 tonnes of wool in 2022, with 10 active suppliers exporting to Germany, the United Kingdom, India, and China.
Challenges in the Wool Sub-Sector
- Policy gaps
The wool sector lacks specific national and county-level policies to support farming, processing, and manufacturing of wool. The National Livestock Policy (2020) recognizes the potential for wool sheep farming but remains in draft form. Additionally, Kenya is not a member of the International Wool Textile Organization (IWTO), limiting access to markets such as the United States of America through initiatives such as the African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA). Without a comprehensive policy framework, it is difficult for stakeholders to develop the wool value chain fully.
- Technical and logistical challenges
The wool sector relies heavily on crafters’ cooperatives and domestic textile mills, but outdated spinning and weaving technologies limit their capacity. These inefficiencies restrict training opportunities for women and youth and reduce wool production. Spinning mills currently operate at 39 per cent capacity, meeting only 7 per cent of the yarn market demand.
Opportunities in the Wool Sector
- Local wool traders
Wool trading offers employment for individuals and cooperatives. For instance, in Nanyuki, four cooperatives and 17 enterprises are involved in aggregating wool from farmers. With proper investment, these actors could match the increasing demand for raw wool from crafters’ cooperatives, domestic textile mills, and export markets.
- Crafters’ cooperatives
Crafters’ cooperatives can unlock employment potential for unskilled and specialized labour. For example, Nanyuki spinners have trained 282 women in spinning and weaving. These cooperatives offer opportunities for youth and women to gain skills and engage in income-generating activities by transforming wool into fine yarns and products.
- Domestic textile mills
The wool sector can add value through local textile mills by providing a ready market for raw wool and producing garments and carpets. Investments in industrial clusters at national and county levels could stimulate job creation through grants and policy support for expansion.
- Wool export markets
The country has made strides in exporting wool, but the market remains underdeveloped. In 2023, 10 out of 27 Merino wool suppliers were active, exporting to 38 buyers globally. Al Ghanamy Enterprises and Guangzhou New Fashion Style were among the top suppliers, contributing to 50 per cent of the Country’s Merino wool exports. Expanding the export market could create more job opportunities along the value chain.
Conclusion and Recommendations
The wool sector holds immense potential for job creation. To unlock this potential, the following recommendations are crucial:
- Develop a comprehensive national wool policy framework
The Government to establish a national wool policy to guide the development of the wool value chain. This policy should support wool production, processing, and export, with specific attention to the African Growth Opportunities (AGOA) and IWTO membership to access global markets.
- Support crafters’ cooperatives and textile mills
National and County governments may invest in modern technologies for spinning and weaving to boost production capacity. This investment should be accompanied by skills training for women and youth to create more employment opportunities and enhance their participation in the labour market.
- Promote wool export opportunities
By becoming a member of IWTO, Kenya could export more wool to markets such as the US under AGOA. This would increase the competitiveness of the wool sector and stimulate job creation along the export value chain.
Through these strategies, the country can unlock the potential of the wool sector, creating jobs, and boosting rural livelihood.
